Brooklyn Home Cooking

So the truism is that New Yorkers don't cook, and I have to admit that having a small kitchen, having to carry my groceries, and being without my own cooking equipment (and sometimes having very little time) has made me more likely to rely on convenience foods, or what I like to think of as the college student diet (tuna-eggs-rice-beans-yogurt, in various combinations).

After I joined the Park Slope Food Coop last fall, though, I started cooking more, or at least eating better at home. Here's a salad I made for Thanksgiving - salad greens and goat cheese that anywhere else I'd consider a luxury are affordable at the coop.

And as with most things, the generalization "people don't cook in NY" must be a bit of an exaggeration for a diverse city of almost 8.5 million people.

Actually, one of my favorite food scenes in a movie takes place in a Brooklyn neighborhood not far from where I live now. Do you remember the egg frying scene in Moonstruck?

Why is it so fun to cut a hole in a piece of bread and crack an egg into it?

Tacombi

Well I guess I have to make my "Plan A" work now because someone scooped my "Plan B." You can now get breakfast tacos in Nolita. Tacombi is essentially an indoor taco truck.

COME & TRY A TACO....uh, ok.

Spanish lesson?

The $4 breakfast tacos: this ain't potato & egg time

The truck, which I think opens for lunch and dinner

A remarkably clean kitchen area
(I did just read Kitchen Confidential, after all...)

My breakfast taco, on a homemade tortilla
I nearly cried.

Was curious about the agua de pepino...

But it came in this sustainably compostable cup so I couldn't admire its color while I drank it

Belleville

Brunch is a big deal in NYC, and there are lots of restaurants who offer it. A couple of weekends ago I met friends at the French-inspired Park Slope establishment called Belleville. My "oeufs pochés" were delicious - sautéed mushrooms and a creamy sauce over nicely round eggs. Thumbs up on the home fries too, which were crisp on the outside.

Everyone else's meal looked equally tantalizing.

Balthazar, when Paris is too far

A few pastries to start your weekend off right. It's a good thing I'm no longer living within walking distance to this bakery...

Meringue with raspberries

Inside a cannele

EXT: Cannele and chocolate croissant
'

Donut (tres francais), madeleine, croissant, apple tart

Chocolate Atole

Despite Texan roots, there are plenty of things I don't know about the great cuisines to the south of here - in Mexico and Central America. Atole, a thick, hot drink that incorporates corn meal or corn starch, is a dish I had heard about but never tried - until recently.

This recipe, from the late Matt Martinez, Jr. 's cookbook, uses Mexican chocolate (which already has cinnamon in it), as well as an additional cinnamon stick...

...and masa harina, mixed with milk and water, and boiled for a while.

Add whipped cream and cinnamon, and voilà! A thick, delicious hot chocolate.

Now I just have to figure out what to do with all that leftover masa harina!

The Perfect Hostess - Part 2

As promised, here are the results of the baked egg in tomato recipe from The Perfect Hostess.


The recipe is a bit vague, as older recipes can often be: scoop out the innards of a tomato, crack an egg into it, cover with breadcrumbs and bake at 350 until the white is firm. Cross-referencing with a recipe from the JOY I decided to forego the breadcrumbs and instead topped the egg with a little butter, salt and pepper.


Thirty minutes later, I pulled the dish out of my toaster oven and enjoyed it with buttered, toasted English muffins. Unfortunately the pictures are not very appetizing - you'd probably have to bake 50 of these to get a pretty one. But they are tasty.

Baking Again

Nothing heralds the arrival of fall like the desire to start baking again after an incredibly long, incredibly hot summer.

In the last few weeks I've fired up the oven several times. Muffins are a favorite.

Adding lemon zest to blueberry muffins

Breakfast! Snack! Dinner! I'm always relieved to have my own "quick breads" around because the ones you buy at the store are either a) flavorless or b) needlessly expensive. This may be one instance where "making your own" is not a good way to maintain a healthy diet, though, because when there's no competition for baked goods they all go in one belly: mine.

Irish soda bread with raisins and caraway seeds. Basically a giant scone. It came together in about 5 minutes (30 to bake). I was shocked.

Coconut Milk Bread Pudding

An excess of coconut milk and a desire for cinnamon rolls collided recently in the form of this bread pudding, made from a modified "New Orleans Style Bread Pudding" JOY recipe (1 cup of sugar instead of 2, coconut milk instead of regular milk, and no bourbon sauce!)

The coconut milk I'm referring to is not the kind that comes in a can--this is a new product from So Delicious that has appeared at the grocery store recently, and that is being marketed as yet another milk substitute (along with soy, almond, hemp, etc.).

My question: can it be used in baking, and if so, will it leave evidence of its pleasingly faint coconutty flavor?

The bread pudding turned out fine, but lacked the coconut flavor. However, warming it with a little coconut milk poured over the top did the trick.

Happy Bastille Day (week)!

Tricolor crepes with blackberries, yogurt, and raspberries

Vegan Dining in Dallas

Made a trip to Dallas last weekend, for my cousin's high school graduation. Dallas is not usually thought of as a hotbed of vegan activity, but I managed to have two vegan meals while I was there, both of them quite decent.

First was the Spiral Diner in Oak Cliff, located at an intersection where the other businesses are car repair shops and fruterias. 

Outside the diner

Inside the diner

Agave-sweetened sodas in the fountain

Vegan biscuits and gravy!

I could have gone for seconds.

Vegan migas (tofu scramble)

Later, we grabbed a quick dinner in Highland Park Village, home to high-end retail and an unassuming burger joint called Who's Who. They offer a nicely done veggie burger, as well as fancy beef burgers and hot dogs.

Specially-made patty and mushrooms 

top all the veggie burgers

Leek Tart (Flamiche aux poireaux)

Some time back I was inexplicably overtaken by the desire to make a pastry crust from scratch. I don't know where these whims come from. But this is the product: a leek tart, from a JOY OF COOKING recipe. 

I like leeks but don't cook with them often. They are associated with St. David and the country of Wales. 

This was good right out of the oven (after that painful 10 minute "settling" time), and again a few days later heated up in the toaster oven. Not as good cold. 

Serving suggestion

Dining Out: Gingerbread at Quack's

Quack's has a large selection of baked goods, but whenever I'm there I almost always get their gingerbread. It's similar to a recipe in the Joy that I've made, but loftier and even denser. Not too sweet, and with strands of ginger running through it. Last time I was there I had a cafe au lait as well, but the bread is so substantial I think it really goes best with tea.

Jumbo gingerbread!

Recession-Proof Breakfast

There's nothing glamorous about oatmeal, but it can still be pretty tasty if it's done up right. This week I happened to have some half and half on hand (try saying that 10 times fast) and it was just the right finishing touch to a bowl already flavored with plumped-up raisins and toasted sliced almonds.

But just about anything can go on oatmeal... I even heard Mark Bittman say he likes soy sauce on his. Personally, I'm more of the stewed apple and cinnamon sugar camp, but I'll reserve judgment until I try it...

Besides being versatile and heart-healthy, easy to make and reheat, oatmeal is also super cheap. I'll enjoy it while the weather is still cool enough to make hot breakfast cereal appealing!

Faves: Yogurt

When did my love affair with yogurt begin? I remember eating it as a child, though not with any particular relish. Back then it just seemed like a poor substitute for ice cream. But ice cream for breakfast, though it may have happened in Little Miss Sunshine, was not a common occurrence in my childhood.

I think I can date a true appreciation of yogurt to the time I spent in France in 2002. That was the first time I remember seeing such a dazzling variety of yogurts in a grocery store. More important, the hostel where we stayed for the first couple of weeks served fromage blanc at breakfast, along with a few other things... Not wanting to have a croissant every morning I got hooked on the yogurt-like substance and continued to eat it on my own, especially with a little fruit preserves or honey mixed in. Sooo gooood.

Back in the states I had a hard time finding a similar product... Most yogurts were thinner, which is not bad (in fact I ate a lot of runny White Mountain yogurt and saved the jars as bulk storage) but does not have the deliciousness factor of the thicker, richer yogurts.

Then a couple of years ago Central Market started carrying Fage... And from there the thick, boutique yogurt craze has mushroomed like an acidophilus culture. In San Francisco, one of the well-known farmers market vendors sells small batch yogurt in recyclable pottery cups. Never tried it, but it has a true following. Here in Austin, I can now spend 30 minutes in front of the yogurt selection at Central Market... So many to choose from. And from what I hear, fro-yo is making a comeback after a facelift.

Yogurt is one of those little indulgences--if you get the kind that isn't reduced fat--that is just healthy enough to be enjoyed on a semi-regular basis. Maybe that's why its popularity is growing. Me, I keep it around (usually plain white yogurt) for breakfast, for snacks, for baking (can often be used instead of buttermilk), even for dips/salad dressings...

Canadian yogurt from Central Market

Yum-o

Re-used White Mountain yogurt jar

Anyway the yogurt-philia is already causing other good things besides smoother digestive action for the masses: Yoplait recently announced they will be fazing out yogurt made with milk treated with rBGH by August.

Christmas Morning Waffles

These are buckwheat waffles, from a recipe in Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Very easy and delicious. My mom had them with butter and lingonberry jam (from Ikea), fried potatoes, and sausage. I just had rich yogurt (Fage) and jam on mine.